In the event that you're thinking regarding painting a pool table , you're probably looking at a substantial furniture piece that presently seems like it is supposed to be in a 1972s basement. Maybe the particular wood is that weird orange-tinted oak, or perhaps it's a beat-up mahogany that's seen so many beer spills over the decades. Whatever the particular reason, taking a brush or a spray can in order to a pool table is a daring move, but it's one that may completely change the vibe of your entire room.
Let's be sincere: buying a brand-new, modern pool table is expensive. We're talking 1000s of dollars with regard to something that appears sleek and contemporary. But if you've already got a sturdy table along with good bones, there's no reason you can't DIY your way to a high-end look. It just takes some patience, a bit of elbow oil, and the motivation to take the whole thing aside.
Is it actually a great idea?
Just before you go buying gallons of paint, you need to ask yourself if your table is a great candidate for this. Most older tables are made like tanks, that is great. When the frame is solid wood or even a decent veneer, painting a pool table is a fantastic method to save it through the landfill.
However, if a person have a top-tier, antique collector's item made of rare rosewood, please, for the love of all things holy, don't paint it. You'll kill the reselling value. But intended for the rest of us with generic Brunswick or Olhausen tables from twenty years ago? Do it now. A fresh coat of matte dark or a deep charcoal can create an old-fashioned table appear like a custom made piece from a high-end boutique.
Getting the prep function right
A person can't just stroll up to a pool table and begin slapping paint on the legs. Nicely, you could , however it would look terrible and probably begin peeling before a person even finish your first game of 8-ball. The key to a professional-looking end is almost completely in the preparation.
First, you've have got to get the felt taken care of. In the event that you're thinking about changing the cloth anyway—which you probably should if you're dealing with all this trouble—just rip it away from. If you're attempting to save the current felt, you're going to have got a much more difficult time. You'll need to tape everything off with surgical precision. Honestly, it's usually better to just plan on a full "refelt" job after the painting is done.
Once the rails are off and the standing is protected (cover that slate along with a heavy drop cloth! ), it's time to fine sand. You don't have to sand it right down to the bare wood, but you do need to scuff upward the existing end so the fresh paint has some thing to grab on to. A medium-grit sandpaper then a fine-grit one usually does the secret. It's a messy, dusty work, so make sure you've got a vacuum handy.
Choosing your weapon: Paint types
When it arrives to the exact painting a pool table part, a person have a several options. Each provides its pros plus cons, and a lot of this will depend on the "look" you're going with regard to.
- Aerosol Paint: This is the particular easiest method to obtain a smooth, original finish without clean marks. If you proceed this route, you'll want to make use of a high-quality teeth enamel spray. The drawback? You have to be incredibly careful about overspray. When you're doing this particular inside your home, you'll need to build a literal plastic tent close to the table.
- Chalk Color: When you want a more "farmhouse" or even rustic look, chalk paint is very forgiving. It stays to almost anything at all and requires much less sanding. You'll want to seal it with a polish or an obvious coat afterward, even though, because pool desks take a great deal of abuse from cues and belt buckles.
- Acrylic Enamel: This is probably the best middle ground. You can brush it upon or use a small foam tool. It dries tough and it is very durable. Look for something labeled "cabinet paint"—it's designed to leveled out as it dries, which helps conceal those pesky brush strokes.
The painting a pool table
As soon as you're sanded, cleansed, and taped, it's time for the primer. Don't skip the primer! Especially if you're going from a darkish wood to a light color, or even if the wooden is particularly greasy. A good bonding primer ensures a person won't be carrying out this all over again within six months.
When you start the actual painting, remember that thin layers are your greatest friend . It's tempting to protect everything in one go, yet that leads in order to drips and works. If you're painting the legs, start from the top plus work your method down. For your bed rails, make sure you're getting into all those little decorative nooks and crannies.
Between jackets, provide an extremely light sand along with a high-grit sandpaper (like 320 or even 400). This knocks and bumps down any small dust nibs that will landed in the wet paint and makes the final result feel smooth to the touch. It's those small extra steps which make the difference between a "DIY project" and something that appears like you bought this at a furniture store.
Dealing with the side rails and pockets
The rails are the most handled section of the table. People rely on them, they arranged their drinks in it (even though they shouldn't), and these people accidentally bang their particular cues against all of them. Due to this, you would like the finish for the rails to be as tough as nails.
If you're painting a pool table a solid color, consider making use of a clear polyurethane topcoat on the side rails for extra protection. You can get these in matte, satin, or high gloss. Satin is usually the particular sweet spot—it looks classy but doesn't reflect the overhead pool light directly into your eyes while you're wanting to aim.
When it comes to pockets, if they're leather, don't color them with the particular same stuff you use on the particular wood. There are usually specific leather dyes or flexible chemicals for that. Or, even better, just buy a new set of pockets. Refreshing leather pockets towards a newly colored frame look incredible.
What about the felt?
We ought to probably talk about the "elephant in the room": the cloth. When you aren't technically painting a pool table surface (please, never put color on the felt! ), the color of the cloth is a huge part of the general look.
If you've colored the frame black or dark gray, a traditional natural felt might appear a little out dated. This is your own chance to go with a sleek competition blue, a heavy burgundy, or even a camel color. Transforming the cloth color along with the particular frame color is definitely what really completes the transformation. It's like getting a whole new table for the price of a couple of cans of paint and a new roll of felt.
Placing it all back again together
The particular hardest part associated with this whole challenge isn't the painting; it's the waiting around. You need in order to let that paint cure. Just because it's dry to the touch doesn't mean it's hard. If you start bolting the rails back on too shortly, the paint might "smush" or stay, ruining all of your difficult work. Give this at least 24 to 48 hours—more if you live someplace humid.
Whenever you finally put it back together, be careful with your tools. It's heartbreaking in order to slip with a wrench and scrape your brand-new paint job around the really last bolt. Get it slow, ask a friend over to help with the heavy lifting, and soon you'll end up being accumulating the golf balls on a table that looks brand new.
From the end of the day, painting a pool table is a labor of love. It's a bit of a task, and it'll probably take you a full weekend (or two), however the satisfaction of since outdated eyesore turned into a centerpiece is totally well worth it. Plus, you'll have a great story to inform the next time you defeat your buddies in a game of 9-ball.